Tafraoute North - Griffon Rock
Griffon rock is set in a beautiful valley, very easy to access and with many fine routes, albeit short by Moroccan standards. It is also useful having three faces so that you can choose between the sun and the shade.
Trad Climbs
| Topo Reference | Title | Trad UK E Grade | Trad UK tech grade | Length | Quality | Description | Tick |
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| 05 | Ten Pound Pom | HVS | 50m | The wall, groove, arete and crack on the left hand side of the main south face |
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| 06 | Mike's Route | HVS | 50m | The slabby wall right of Ten Pound Pom, finishing up that route |
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| 07 | Dennis the Menace | HVS | 5a | 35m | Meander up to the crack / groove in the middle of the wall and follow this to the top |
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| 08 | Berber Ellis | HS | 35m | * | Climvb a leftward trending flake to a ledge, move right and follow a groove to the top |
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| 09 | Grasshopper Arete | VS | 4c | 40m | ** | The right hand arete of the South buttress |
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| 10 | Ampitheatre Buttress | E1 | 5a | 50m | * | A more or less direct line starting at a chimney with a jammed block right of Grasshopper arete |
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| 11 | Crackerjack | E3 | 5c | 50m | *** | Climb up to a belay below the overhanging crack and climb this to finish up the steep hollow wall. Sustained and well protected |
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| 12 | Kangoo Corner | VS | 4b | 60m | The left side of the large pinnacle high on the face |
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| 13 | Rest Day Rendezvous | HVS | 4c | 60m | The right side of the pinnacle is slightly harder to reach, and has the same finish above. Climbed in two pitches (4c,4b) |
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| 14 | A profusion of protrusions | E1 | 5b | 50m | ** | The jamming crack and juggy wall on the East face of Griffon |
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| 15 | Seven years | E2 | 5b | 50m | ** | Climb the flake and rib left of "Profusion" on the East face to finish up the steep arete, from where it is possible to escape to "Profusion" |
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| 17 | North East Corner | E1 | 5b | 60m | ** | Start at the chimney next to the path on the East face and climb this to a belay ledge (30m 5b). Continue up the groove above and a traverse right to a finishing groove (5b). |
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| 18 | Two Left Feet | E2 | 5b | 70m | * | Start 10m left of Pot Black and climb through bulges to meet that route at a spike belay (30m 5b). Climb up to a cave and break out left across the wall to finish up a slab (40m 5b) |
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| 19 | Pot Black | HVS | 5b | 60m | The groove, cracks, cave and chimney direct to the top |
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| 20 | Perfect Partners | E1 | 5b | 50m | * | The left wall of the gully. Climbs the right groove / crack to a ledge, then goes over a bulge to finish up the wall. |
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| 22 | Moussem | E5 | 6a | 25m | ** | Climb up boldly and with difficulty to a thread. Continental more easily to a sling abseil point |
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| 23 | Bossy Boots | E4 | 5c | Starts just left of the cave and climbs the scoop past two pegs, then up right to a ledge and back left to belay in the large niche (30m 5c). Continue up the right hand side of the niche, moving onto a pillar to reach an abseil point (30m 5b) |
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| 24 | Funky Town | E1 | 5a | 60m | Starts right of the cave and takes a meandering line up and left to an orange cave (30m 5a). The moves right to climb a black chimney (30m 5a) |
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| 25 | Blackout | E4 | 5c | 40m | Start right of Funky Town and climb up to the right hand side of the orange overhangs. Go through these to a rest on the right and then climb back left to the top. Tree abseil up on the left. |
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| 26 | Knit one perl one | E1 | 5b | 50m | * | The wall right of the orange overhangs |
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| 27 | The Rainmaker | E1 | 5a | 50m | Start right of a boulder and head up and rightwards to the pinnacle abseil |
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| 28 | Kasbah Tizourgane | E2 | 5c | 50m | ** | Start to the left of a black streak and to the right of an orange corner. Gain the corner and after 15m step right onto the face to climb this to a sling (possible lower off) and up easy rock to the top |
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| 29 | Green Plastic Dinosaur | E2 | 5b | 80m | ** | Follow cracks right of Kasbah Tizourgane to a bulge, go over this and up to a groove in the right wall. Follow this with interest to the abseil pinnacle. A variation is "Cornish Cream" E1 5b,4c that moves left at the groove, and climbs the corner and belays before going up the wall behind the abseil pinnacle. |
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| 30 | Silver arete | E1 | 5b | 40m | The arete left of the silver wall on the right hand side of the crag |
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| 31 | Silver wall | E1 | 5b | 40m | * | The centre of the silver wall, starting up Silver arete. |
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