Tafraoute North - Lower Eagle
The Afantizar valley is a lovely, lonely place to climb, and Lower Eagle an excellent cliff with long routes, getting easier the higher you climb. Black Beauty, the prominent streak down the middle of the crag is already a classic, visible from afar.
From Tizourgane Kasbah, follow the road to Ida Ougnidif and turn right at the end of the village. The road now winds uphill and about 19km from the Kasbah is a right turning with a parking spot just before it on the right hand side of the road. Park here. The crag is reached in 15 minutes. Descent from the routes is via a well cairned path leading down and to the right (facing in), and located a little back from the top of the routes. It eventually descends a gully at the right hand side of the crag (30 minutes)
Most climbers stay at Tizourgane Kasbah. http://www.tizourgane-kasbah.com/
Trad Climbs
| Topo Reference | Title | Trad UK E Grade | Trad UK tech grade | Length | Quality | Description | Tick |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 06 | Pink Lady | VS | 4c | 230m | *** | Starts by some pinkish slabs and climb left to reach a chimney (50m 4a), follow this to reach a rib (50m 4c). Climb the rib (50m 4c) to reach a second chimney. Climb the chimney and then left arete to reach ledges (30m 4c) and continue to the top (50m 4b) |
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| 07 | Real men wear pink | VS | 4c | 230m | A variation on "Pink Lady", climbing the crack system on the right of pitches 2 and 3 |
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| 08 | Immacularder | HVS | 5a | 210m | Start 20m left of Black Beauty and follow the easiest line, leftwards at first, to the top of the cliff |
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| 09 | Black Beauty | E1 | 5b | 210m | *** | The classic line of the crag taking the obvious black streak, moving right after 100m to avoid the tree filled chimney. Pitch grades: 15m 5a; 35m 5b; 50m 5a; 50m 5b; 60m 4c |
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| 10 | Moroccan Gold | E2 | 5b | 210m | *** | Start up the chimney just right of Black Beauty, and continue awkwardly and strenuously to a hanging groove and a belay ledge (55m 5b). Continue up slabs, grooves and over bulges to a ledge under an orange bulge (55m 5b). Continue up a diagonal crack, and over slabs and bulges to another ledge (50m 5a). Finish direct (50m 4c) |
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| 11 | Pale and interesting | E1 | 5a | 200m | ** | Start as for Moroccan gold, and belay after the chimney (25m 4c); Move right to climb a crack to a ledge (30m 4c); Step left and climb the steep wall over 2 bulges and a small roof (30m 5a). Continue direct, becoming easier as you get higher (115m 4c) |
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| 12 | Another day at the coalface | E1 | 5b | 180m | Follows a left slanting black line to the top of the crag, starting at a shallow groove leading to a break in the overhangs |
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| 13 | Herbivore | E2 | 5c | 215m | Avoids the hard start of Infinity, by starting as for "Coalface" and then traversing the break past "Infinity" to belay below a cave (35m 5c). Continue right until some steep bold moves left into the cave (50m 5b). Continue more easily direct to the top (130m). |
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| 14 | Infinity | E4 | 5c | 210m | ** | A poorly protected and hollow first 15m leads to a difficult move into a superb crack (5c). Follow this still with difficulty to the first stance (30m 5c). Now step boldy up and right and continue trending slightly right to belay at the left hand end of a ledge system (40m 5b). Continue more or less direct in 2 or 3 pitches to the top of the crag (140m 5a) |
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| 15 | Artful Dodging | VS | 210m | A wandering line that follows the weaknesses up the central part of the cliff |
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Crags in this region:
Photos (click for full view)
