Tafraoute North - The White Dome

The White Dome is actually a collection of 5 Towers, partly visible from the Tizourgane Kasbah and the road that leads from Ida Ougnidif to the Afantizar valley. The routes are mostly on excellent rock, follow strong natural lines, and many of them are destined to become classics.

Region
Morocco - Tafraoute
Rock Type
Quartzite
Altitude
1500m
Number of routes
50
Range of Routes
S - E4, with routes predominately in the E1/E2 range
Faces
North West
Climbing Area
Tafraoute North
Directions

Follow the road from Tizourgane Kasbah to Ida Ougnidif and at the end of the village turn right. The road continues for a few kilometres and just before it starts to go uphill to a series of hairpin bends there is a dirt track on the left signposted to "Tassila Agro Imoul", that leads down to a pencil waterfall (often dry) with a pond at the bottom of it (usually wet). Continue along this track for about a kilometre to a parking spot opposite a large house (Tassila). Walk back a hundred metres or so to a right angled bend in the road, and follow a cairned track that leads up and left past a concrete water runnel, and then below a large crag until it is possible to climb up a gully that leads to an opening below tower 2. Turn right for towers 3 to 5, and left for towers 1 and 2. About 30 minutes from the parking. 

Morocco Tafraoute White Tower topo
Accommodation

Most climbers stay at Tizourgane Kasbah. http://www.tizourgane-kasbah.com/

Trad Climbs

Topo Reference Title Trad UK E Grade Trad UK tech grade Length Quality Description Tick
00 SECTOR 100m

TOWER 1 NORTH FACE. The North face has about 20 routes mostly in the E1 to E3 range. Descent is by abseil from the middle of the finishing ledge
10 SECTOR

TOWER 1 West face. Descent from these routes is also by abseil from the middle of the finishing ledge on the North face
13 London's calling E2 5b 100m **

Flake and crack 30m 5a;
Groove and move to right end of the roofs 45m 5b;
25m
14 Fairest of All E3 5c 110m *

steep and strenuous at the start
15 Comes the Berber E4 6a 100m *

corner 50m 6a; crack 50m 4c
16 Bacon Double Cheeseburger E1 5b 100m

An S crack (50m 5b) followed by the crack through an overlap (50m 5b)
17 Grumpy HVS 5a 100m *

Grooves and overhangs

18 Running on Empty HVS 5b 115m

The slab above the roof is gained from the right
20 SECTOR

TOWER 2. Descent is best by walking to the descent (Staghorn) gully to the right (looking in) of Tower 3
21 Prince of Persia HVS 5b 145m **

The face on Tower 2 overlooking the gully. Start up the gully. Pitches of 5b; 4c; 5a; 5a
22 Beacon E3 5c 190m **

Direct up the front face. 4b;5c;5b;4c;5c
23 Bat out of hell HVS 5a 190m

4c;5a;4c;4c;4a
24 The Lion King HVS 5a 180m

40m (-) ; 40m 5a; 35m 4c; 15m (-) ; 50m 4c
30 SECTOR

TOWER 3. Descent is either by abseil or by walking to Staghorn gully, to therightof Tower 3.
31 3rd rock from the sun E2 5b 50m

The wall left of Leaving Las Vegas, starting on the right
32 Leaving Las Vegas E1 5b 40m ***

Climbs the obvious wide crack with a bit of thrutching although it can sometimes be avoided on the right. Big cams useful. Abseil from the large finishing ledge.
33 Some like it hot E3 5c 55m **

Starts 10m up the gully behind the detached pinnacle. A bold start to gain the horizontal break 10m up is followed by easier but still thought provoking climbing heading up and slightly right to a large ledge. Abseil descent
34 The golden compass E1 5b 100m ***

Start near the top of the gully behind the detached pinnacle and climb the obvious corner traversing right to the continuation flake to belay on a ledge (50m 5a). Step right to climb the wall slightly rightwards to a crack and continue to the top. Abseil point up and left. (50m 5b)
35 Central Arete E2 5c 75m

Start at the highest point behind the pinnacle and climb up to the right hand side of the arete (30m 4c); Climb the right side of the arete to finish high up on the left side of the arete. (45m 5c). Descend by an abseil point up and left

Crags in this region: