Su Casteddu

A huge crag just round the corner from Ulassai. The routes are of excellent quality, and set in a beautiful location. Although it is 100m high, at present it has been bolted for single pitch routes, many of which require an 80m rope. ALWAYS TIE A KNOT IN THE END OF YOUR ROPE. Note that because the crag is relatively new, not all the grades have "settled down" yet, treat with caution.

Region
Italy - Sardinia
Rock Type
Limestone
Altitude
800m
Number of routes
50
Range of Routes
5c - 8b
Faces
West
Sun
In the afternoon, perfect for cold days with sunshine
Climbing Area
Ulassai
Guidebook
Available in the cafes and shops in Ulassai, please buy it. The crags around Ulassai are equipped by several enthusiasts who have done a magnificent job. Show your appreciation.
Ulassai climbing guidebook
Directions

From the green Piazza Barigau in Ulassai take the road just to the right of the Internet café and follow this to a parking spot near its end underneath aother large crag. From the parking spot follow the continuation track for about 5 minutes until you can fork left up a signposted path that leads to terraces and the crag. 10 to 15 minutes walking.

Ulassai Su Casteddu climbing topo
Ulassai Su Casteddu climbing topo

Sport and bolted routes

Topo Ref Route Sport Grade Length Quality Description Tick
01 Baldur's gate 6a 10m
02 Hier kommt Alex 6b 10m
03 Stuck in the starlight 10m
04 Noe foefelare 5c 10m
05 Roos & Floor 5c 10m
06 Mental Breakdown 5c 10m
07 Gugu e lupo 5c 10m
08 Goatrider
09 Goatbusters

same start as Goatrider but move right
10 Waki 6b+ 30m
11 Buling 6b+ 30m
12 Tess the rock princess 6c+ 25m

a good sustained route
13 Marcello starman 7a 20m
14 Lemon Squeezy 8a 25m
15 Crazy Wedding 8a 40m
16 Un gusto della liberta 35m

The blank wall. Project
17 Contromisure 8a+ 35m
18 Je bande donc j'essui 6b+ 15m
18e Je bande donc j'essui extension 7a+ 30m

The extension to Je bande
18f L'Arnaque Verhoeven 7b+ 30m

The right hand extension to Je bande
19 Il rutto 6a 15m
20 Crankenjura 7b+ 15m
21 Cygnus

Just left of the corner
22 Python crack 6c+ 25m
23 Lets petz betz 7b 30m

Start up Python crack and then move right
24 Skyfall 7c+ 30m

Wall and roof
25 Sangue di cinghiale 7b+

Above the fixed rope
26 Black eyed sky 7c 30m

From the right hand side of the fixed rope
27 Henergy 6c+ 25m
28 Chumbawamba 7b+ 40m

For the next few routes an 80m rope is desirable. Tie a knot in the end
29 Bokito 7c 40m
30 Hot Marijke 7b+ 40m
31 Floke 7c 40m
32 Nanice 7b 40m
33 Wie ni waagt nie klimt 6c+ 25m
34 Bacciami subito 7a+ 30m
35 Nannaientists 4 ever 7a 40m
36 Un have Maria 6a 40m
37 Accoglie la vita 6b 40m
40 #metoo 6b+ 35m
42 Major Tom 8a+ 35m
44 Sylviaster Stallone 7c 30m
44 Ground control 7b 30m
45 Corner job 6c+ 30m
47 Kakbroekchef 7c 40m
48 I love bolting 7c+ 40m
49 Cometè 7c 35m

Two pitches. 6a+; 7c
50 Walhalla

project
51 le molle della vita 7c 35m
52 Korala 7b 30m
53 Luck Lucy 7c 30m
54 Furto allo stato 7c+ 25m
55 Pota tasinantable 7a 35m
56 Reddito di cittasinanta 7c 30m

Trad Climbs

Topo Reference Title Trad UK E Grade Trad UK tech grade Length Quality Description Tick
41 Ogliastroman 6a 35m
46 Dazed and confused 6b 25m

Crags in this region: