Rütenen

A quiet crag near to the pretty little village of Himmelried. The routes are relatively short, but what they lack in height they more than make up for in difficulty! Perhaps the grades are boulder grades rather than French sport grades. The crag is north west facing and so mostly shady, this is good in the summer, but slow drying the rest of the year.

Region
Switzerland - Basler Jura
Rock Type
Limestone
Altitude
600m
Number of routes
40
Range of Routes
5c - 8a
Sun
The crag gets the sun In the evening in the summer, otherwise in the shade
Climbing Area

Sport and bolted routes

Topo Ref Route Sport Grade Length Quality Description Tick
00 SECTOR

PICCOLINOS. The furthest sector left. The routes here are short and spread apart

01 Miraculix 7a+ 10m

About 100m left of the "Denker" is the furthest buttress which has two routes next to each other. The left hand has a boulder move over a small roof

02 Asterix 5c 10m

Just right of Miraculix

03 Idefix 5c 12m

About 60m left of the "Denker" is a buttress with three routes on it. The left hand is the easiest

04 Verlehnix 6a 12m

The shallow corner

05 Herjemine 6b 12m

A few metres to the right of Verlehnix

06 Obelix 5c

A crack about 40m left of the "Denker".

07 Nase 7b

Starts as for Obelix and moves right with difficulty

08 Moccichino 5b
09 Piccolino 5c

The bulge 25m left of Royal Orleans

10 Topolino 5b

The cracked wall right of Piccolino

11 Eisfinger 6a

Pleasant climbing right of Topolino

13 White Rabbit 6a+

On the buttress just left of new Orleans

14 Standardisation 7b+ 15m

A direct line at the left hand side of the buttress above the "Denker"

15 Royal Orleans 6b 15m

Climb up and right to the crack to finish as for Standardisation. Hard

16 Howard Stern Gedächtnisweg 6c 15m

Start right of Royal Orleans and finish at the same lower off

19 Schön nach liebe 6c+ 15m
21 SECTOR

DER DENKER. The isolated boulder left of the main sector has a project on the left and a trio of bouldery routes, finishing at the same lower-off, on its right hand side

23 Denk mal! 7c 10m
24 Denken, dann einhenken 7b 10m
25 Die rechte Hand des Grauens ... 7a 10m

... aus der tiefe der Höll

30 SECTOR

RÜTENEN ART The first sector that you reach is the best

31 Kerosin 7a 15m

At the left hand side of the first sector. Fingery climbing.

32 Embrionic Journey 6b+ 15m

The wall and crack to the right of Kerosin

33 Mandrake Root 5c+ 15m

The corner crack is enjoyable

34 Sultans of Swing 6c 15m

Balancy and difficult climbing up the shallow arete

35 Living Loving Maid 6a 15m

The obvious layback flake is harder than it looks

36 Korrigiert am 26 Juni 1997 7b 15m
37 Sevoso 7b 15m

A good route on shallow pockets

38 Dioxin 6c+ 15m

Start as for Seveso and move right. 

39 The long way of Island 8a 15m
40 Le triangle inutile 7b 15m

Bouldery

41 Tea for Two 6c+ 15m

A companion route to tea for one, with similar moves on pockets

42 Tea for One 6c 15m

Nice bouldery moves on large pockets

43 Rote Zora 7b 15m

The gently overhanging, fingery wall is sustained to the end

44 Fahrstuhl des Herrn 7a+ 15m

The blunt arete

45 Rütenen Art 5b 10m

The first route at the right hand side of the crag. Short and bouldery, and definitely a boulder grade!

Crags in this region: