Sardinia
Sardinia is a beautiful island, with a climate and diet that lends itself to having one of the longest life expectancies, and the biggest proportion of centenarians in the world. It has a bit of everything. it is mountainous, rising straight out of the sea to its highest point at Punta La Marmora at 1,834 m. Couple this with nearly 1800 km of coastline, much of it beautiful beaches, it is easy to see how the island is something of a paradise.
The climbing is also excellent! From mountain walking, single beginners pitches, through mid grade sport climbing to multi pitch desperados, there is something for everyone. Most of the rock is limestone, although in the north and centre of the island, there is some granite borrowed from Corsica. Although it is possible to climb all over the island, there are 4 major centres.
The most popular area for visitors is probably around Cala Gonone on the east coast, and it is easy to see why, with its beaches and beautiful surroundings. A stay here will put you in reach of the local crags, as well as some of Italy's best climbing on the Aguglia pinnacle and around Punta Giradili. Be aware though that some of the bolts in this area are old and not always salt proof, especially around Cala Luna.
Jerzu and Ulassai are popular and extensive, and best in late spring, summer and autumn, being located higher up in the mountains.
Isili, one hour north of Cagliari is excellent with many fine steep crags situated along the valley floor. The wildlife here is also beautiful.
Domusnovas in the south east of the island is perhaps the 4th major "centre" of climbing on the island.
Several guides to local areas available, including ones that cover the whole island. For single pitch sport routes, Marizio Oviglia's Pietra di Luna is probably the best.
Crags in this region:
| Title | Description |
|---|---|
| Baunei | Along the coast near to Baunei are several excellent cliffs from one pitch roadside slabs to 400m multi pitch routes on perfect rock. The area is beautiful, located in the Orosei national park.  |
| Isili | Near to the village of Isili in the centre of Sardinia are a number of crags mostly characterised by short, steep, well bolted overhanging routes. This will especially appeal to those who perhaps prefer short rather than long stamina routes, but the upside for the rest is that the grading is often on the soft side, so everyone has fun. |
| Ulassai | Another beautiful part of Sardinia, located in the mountains near the East coast. Ulassai itself is a pretty little village surrounded by many impressive crags. The village forms a perfect base for exploring them. |
Photos (click for full view)
