Gross Grünhorn via Aletsch Glacier
The big green peak. A curious name since it is white for most of the year, maybe black and white at best. It has a wonderful summit, and outstanding views over the Aletsch glacier and the other nearby 4000m mountains. Is it easy to get to the top of it? Well yes. But. In 2011 the reputed Swiss mountaineer Erhard Loretan died just below the summit guiding a female client, after which a spokesman for the Wallis police infamously said "it is not a particularly dangerous mountain". Maybe I climbed a different mountain. Loretan was the 3rd person to climb all fourteen 8000m summits, so was no novice. To even get to the bottom of the mountain you have to traverse the Fiescher, Aletsch or Jungfrau glaciers. Then after a night at 3000m, climb the Grünhorn glacier, which is full of crevasses. Traverse under the huge hanging seracs of Grünegghorn, and finally climb 200m of steep frozen rubble. Not hard (grade II), but any slip would almost certainly be fatal. Finally a short traverse across the summit ridge with several hundred meters of exposure either side. OK, in perfect conditions, for an experienced party, with the correct equipment, it is a walk in the park. But not particularly dangerous? Maybe I am just a wimp. Whatever your perception of danger, the climb deserves respect. That said, the climb to the summit is exhilarating, and with proper care, should not present too many problems.
It is usual to start either from Konkordia hütte, which can be approached from Jungfraujoch (easiest) or via Lotschenlücke. Or alternatively from Finsteraarhornhütte over the Grünhornlücke. Jungfraujoch s reached by an expensive, but worthwhile train journey from Grindelwald. To get to Konkordia hütte it is an easy ski down the Jungfraufirn glacier, avoiding the crevasses at the start by keeping to the right. and then following the right hand side of the glacier to the junction with Aletschfirn, before traversing directly across the glacier to the foot of the steps that lead to Konkordiahütte. When the hut was first built in 1877, it was about 50 metres above the glacier. Over the years the glacier has shrunk to the extent that it is now 150m above the glacier, and a steel ladder has had to be built to climb the cliff that the glacier has revealed underneath the hut. There are good routes on this cliff in summer, however, at any time of year, the 400 steps that have to be climbed feel very strenuous, especially if you are not yet acclimatised to the 2850m altitude!
The Aletsch glacier is the biggest glacier in Europe, and this three day tour descends almost the full length of it, climbing Gross Grünhorn on the way. A superb outing that requires care on the Aletsch glacier due to the many crevasses. At almost a kilometre wide, it is easy to lose the tracks that often mark the descent, and is for sure a lot more dangerous to ascend than descend on skis. Day 1) Take the train from Grindelwald to Jungfraujoch, and follow the right hand side of the glacier to the junction with Aletschfirn that descends from Lotschenlücke. From here traverse directly across to the foot of the cliff (ski depot) that leads via a ladder with 400 steps to the hut. Some care is needed at the start from Jungfraujoch to avoid the crevasses in the middle of the first section. Except for this it is an easy ski from Jungfraujoch to Komkordiahütte. Day 2) Following an overnight stop in the hut, descend the steps, and traverse north west past a couple of small lakes to the Ewigschneefeld glacier. (30 minutes from the hut). From here follow the right hand side of the glacier, taking a lot of care with the many crevasses to reach a bowl that traverses under the huge hanging seracs of Grünegghorn. Not recommended in warm weather. After the exit from the bowl head right towards the col between Grünegghorn and Gross Grünhorn, and then climb the steep snow field leftwards to the foot of the rocks that are 200m from the summit. Ski depot. The last section is steep, not too hard scrambling (grade II) to the summit, but any slip here could be (and has been) fatal. Full Alpine gear, crampons, rope and pick axe is necessary for this last section. A rope is also advisable on the climb lower down through the glacier. Descend by the same route. Day 3) Descend the glacier from Konkordiahütte by moving first a few hundred yards towards the centre, then following a line that is roughly the distance from the left hand edge until it is possible to exit at the obvious valley that leads left to Märjelesee. Care is needed descending the glacier, and it is not recommended in poor visibility. After leaving the glacier climb easily up to the small lake, from where there are two possibilities. Either continue up for about 300m to the ridge above the Fiesch ski resort, and head back right to reach the pistes that will take you down to the cable cars and eventually to Fiesch. Alternatively, there is a tunnel from the end of the lake that avoids much of the climbing. Grab a beer at one of the mountain restaurants before the descent to Fiesch, you deserve it!
The tragic story of the mountain guide Erhard Loretan
Ski tours in this region:
Photos (click for full view)
