Kalymnos Kalydna

Big steep orange walls with technical climbing on pockets and crimps. Excellent. Gets the sun after about 14.00, although the right hand parts can be climbed until 16.00

Region
Greece - Kalymnos
Rock Type
Limestone
Altitude
100m
Number of routes
50
Faces
West
Climbing Area
Kalymnos
Directions

Go to the sector Poet's by walking north out of Masouri and just after Mike's bikes and before the climbing shop turn right up a steep concrete path to some steps. Follow the steps and then the track up to the Poet's crag. Follow the base of this past Iannis and through a fence to Kalydna. About 20 minutes from the road.

Climb Kalymnos Kalydna topo

Sport and bolted routes

Topo Ref Route Sport Grade Length Quality Description Tick
01 Radom 6b+ 40m
02 Hype 7b 30m
03 Spark 6b+ 30m
04 Hot Fuel 7a 30m
05 Blevita 6b 20m
06 Avra 6a 20m
07 No name

An old 2 pitch route to the left of Mami au Grigri
08 Mami au Grigri 6b+ 30m

Steep with big holds, finishes at the first lower off where the previous route tries to continue
09 Miss Latex 6b+ 30m
10 Bigboo 7a 30m
11 Mitra 7b 120m

A multi pitch route with 3 long pitches : 7b; 7b; 7a
12 Fragment 6c 50m
13 Yebus 6c+ 35m
14 Easy 8a 8a 40m

Starts between fragment and Fran Fran, then crosses the latter

15 Fran-Fran 7b+ 32m
16 Tassir 7a+ 30m
16e Tassir extension 7b+ 45m
17 Calida 6c+ 30m
18 Sickle 7a+ 35m
18e Sickle extension 7b 45m
19 Uschana 6c 30m
19e Uschana extension 7b+ 45m
20 Golden Oriole 6b+ 30m
21 Aurora 7b 50m

Long and run out (crux) at the end, can be shortened by belaying from the ledge at 15m
21e Aurora extension 8a 60m ***
22 Theodora 6c+ 25m ***
22e Dead zone 7c+ 50m

The extension to Theodora
22f Dead zone extension 60m

The extension to the extension. 9a?
23 Kalynikhla 6b+ 20m ***
23a Chumbawamba 7b+ 35m

The left hand extension to Kalynikhla
23b Chumbawamba extension part 1 8b+ 50m
23c Chumbawamba extension part 2 60m
23e Kalynikhla extension 7b+ 45m ***

The right hand extension to Kalynikhla
24 Ixion 7a 25m ***

Getting slippy, but a classic. At the time of writing the 7th bolt was missing
24L1 To Have + Not to Be 7c+ 35m ***

The left hand extension to Ixion
24L2 To Have + Not to Be 8c+ 50m

The full extension
24R1 Unique part 1 7b+ 40m ***

The right hand extension to Ixion
24R2 Unique 8c+ 50m ***

The full right hand extension
25 Fiction 7a 25m ***

The wall left of Extra
26 Extra 6b 25m ***
27 Nickel 7a+ 35m ***

Superb and sustained, it saves the best for last.
28 Late evening light 6a+ 25m ***
28L The Mole that Cram Full 8b 45m

The left hand extension to Late evening light
28M1 Tarantula 7c 40m

The middle extension to Late Evening Light
28M2 Tarantula extension 45m

project
28R Triste Saccage 8b+ 40m

The right hand extension
29 Fake Friends 8b 30m
29R Trou dans l'air 8b 30m

Right hand variant to Fake Friends
30L L'air d'un trou 8b 30m
30M J'ai du temps donc de l'argent 7b+ 30m
30R Keep going 8a+ 25m
31 Life Style 7b 35m
32 Kaly Cälins 6c 25m ***

Tricky, technical, enjoyable climbing up the groove
33 Mamy Nova 6c 20m **

The overhanging groove. Low in the grade
34 Spacy 7a+ 25m **

A short, satisfying sequence of 3 monos on the upper wall. Tricky.
35 Dart 6b 35m

Crags in this region: