Pena Roja

Pena Roja is an easily accessible and pleasant crag of red limestone just two kilometres from the village of Jalon in the hills above Calpe. It has some steep walls with routes mostly in the 6b  to 7b range. Bolting is good and the rock is solid, albeit polished in places. it gets the sun in the morning and is understandably popular. In addition  to the established left hand sector there are newer routes on two smaller buttresses of grey rock about 200m further right.

Region
Spain - Costa Blanca
Rock Type
Limestone
Altitude
350m
Number of routes
50
Range of Routes
6a - 8a
Faces
South East
Sun
Until about 2pm in winter
Climbing Area
Costa Blanca
Directions

Follow the road out of Calpe to Benissa and then to the village of Jalon (Xalo in local dialect). From here drive 2 km towards Lliber and just before the village take a sharp left on a narrow track that leads over a dry river bed to parking opposite the crag. 2 minutes drive from the road and 2 minutes walk to the routes.

Pena Roja climbing topo

Sport and bolted routes

Topo Ref Route Sport Grade Length Quality Description Tick
01 Proble zquierda 5c+ 10m

The first route at the left hand side of the crag. Not the best introduction.
02 Como un loco 6a 10m
03 Sanso si pilila 6a 15m

The left hand line to the same lower off as the next route
04 Sanson y dalila 6a 15m
05 Là desarrugada 6b+ 10m
06 Agarrate como puedas 7a 10m

A dyno to the large hole
07 Puta hila 6c+ 15m

The left hand line to the same lower off as the next route
08 Toro salvaje 7a 15m
09 Hall 9000 6c+
10 El pasa de la dende 6a 20m
11 De la Misma, a Mitad 10m

A short steep route with  a stopper move on the upper section. 7b?
12 Chupito de Orujo 6a 10m

A short crack
13 Through the Magic Window 5c+ 20m

The long corner finishing at the same lower off as the next two routes
14 Through the Magic Door 6a 20m
15 Soca una igualita 6b 20m

The last of the trio
16 Techno mania 7a+ 15m

The technical wall behind the tree leads to the roof.
17 Tarzan de las monodedos 7b 20m

You don't have to be fluent In Spanish to guess the style of climbing
18 La bella 7b 20m

The overlap is the crux
19 La bestia 7b+ 20m
20 Caprichosa 6b 20m

The polished corner
21 Sulacco 7a+ 20m

The steep technical wall just right of the corner
22 Fisura Yablonski 7a 20m

Tricky start and finish
23 Caballo loco 7a+ 20m

An overhang start leads to the same lower off as the previous route
24 Muevete en huracan 6c 20m

The arete has some tricky moves over the bulge
25 Siempre en alguna parte 6c 20m

The wall right of the corner
26 Lliberpool 6b+ 20m

One of the polished classics of the crag
27 Le Baton 7b 20m
28 El desafio 8a 20m

The hard steep arete
29 Pan y circo 7b+ 20m
30 Sin tarjeta de presentacion 6c+ 20m

An excellent route, hard at the start and at the end
31 Maragda 7c 20m

The harder left hand side of the roof
32 Roja techo 7b+ 20m

The slightly easier right hand side of the roof
33 Rockadictos 6c+ 20m
34 La Libertine 6a+ 20m

An excellent steep route up the pillar
35 New Groove 7a+ 20m

The groove and overhangs
50 SECTOR ALEJANDRIA

200m right of the main sector is a grey buttress hidden in the trees. It has several worthwhile routes, the grades here have not been confirmed
51 Higuerita Direct 7b

At the left hand side of this sector
52 Chicharra Man 7a
53 Me cago en el amor 8a
54 Amor y fe 7b
55 Los Espantanenas 7a+
56 Salamandra 6c+
57 Libertaria 6b
58 Pranayama 7a 20m

Climbs steeply above the route pebble
59 Benvigut Alesandria 6b+ 20m *

Starts just to the right of Pranayama at a hard to read route pebble. Harder than it looks but gets easier the higher you go
60 Tontito 7a

Crags in this region: