Greece

Sheltered and south facing, the main part of Styx is a sun trap and thus a good crag for the winter months. That said the sun does not reach the SW facing walls until 12.30, and here can be pleasant in spring and autumn. It has beautiful views over the bay of Emporios, which offers welcome swimming and lunch in the warmer months. The rock is often sharp. Guillot corner is a classic of the grade.

One of the few sectors at Kalymnos that gets the shade in the afternoon, so popular with those that stay in bed late. Some nice slabs near to the road, and steeper routes a bit further up the hill. 

A pleasant location high above the southern end of Masouri with climbing in a sort of gorge that has always a sunny and shady side. The walls of the gorge give excellent steep pocketed climbing in the middle grades. The shade moves from the south to the north face between 1pm and 2pm.

Vathy is a pleasant and pictueresque port on the east side of alymnos. It is best know for its Deep Water Soloing crag, but there are also some long sea traverses and a couple of bolted cliffs. When it is hot and the water is warm, it is a great place to spend a rest day.

Lots of mid grade walls, with a couple of steeper climbs. Mostly on good rough rock. Gets the sun until about 2pm. The routes have the name written at the bottom.

The slabs and tufas of Panagia offer a variety of climbing. Easy climbing on the slabs, mid grade walls to the left and steep tufas above the ledge. All are well bolted, and can be hot on all but the coldest of winter days.

A small slab of excellent rock, with a few mid grade routes on it. Gets the sun in the morning, and the shade in the afternoon. Route names written at the  bottom of the climbs.

A beautiful wall of grey limestone, with a handful of excellent mid grade routes. The rock is very solid, and the protection very good. Not much shade from the sun on hot days. Route names are mostly written at the bottom of the climbs.

A popular spot due to the many mid grade slab and wall climbs. It has beautiful views over the surrounding area, solid rock and is well bolted. Not so good for kids at the base of the crag, and if the sun is shining, it will quickly be too hot, except on cold winter days. 

Mostly steep and hard, this big cave does have an interesting shelter for the goats, and some easier routes on the flanks. However, it is the hard routes that attract, and they are excellent. The crag faces South and so can get hot. It is set amidst lovely rocky mountain scenery.

A bit of a sun trap with excellent well bolted lines on very good grey limestone. Mad Wall is slabby, Yellow Wall a bit steeper. Most of the routes have the names written at the bottom.

A tufa ridden crag of beautiful red limestone, Mars is a paradise for those who like strenuous stalactites and walls. The walk in is a little exposed, involving two roped sections, but the ledge under the crag is comfortable.

Developed in 2015 by Austrian climbers Angela Eiter and Bernie Ruech, Nifada is a steep tufa ridden crag on the road between Elona and Kosmas, a few kilometres away from the main Leonidio sites. At 800m it can be cold in winter.

Located just above the monastery of St. Nicholas, are some very impressive cliffs, that reach a height of over 100m. The climbs on the (true) right bank, are long and difficult, and sometimes require a backup rack of trad gear. Those on the (true) left bank are shorter, mostly single pitch. It is often a lot cooler here than in the valley itself, and shade or sunshine can be found according to the time of day. The right bank is in the shade until about 2pm, and the left bank after 3pm. The monastery is worth a visit in its own right.

A crag of two halves. On the left hand side mid grade slabs and cracks, full on in the sun. On the right hand side the big cave, which at its steepest part, although south facing stays in the shade. The routes here are not mid grade!

A lovely cliff with two distinct climbing styles. The left hand side is steep, smooth and overhanging. The right hand side is vertical, rough and with good pockets, both sides have excellent routes. Thos on the right hand side are generally 40m or a little longer, an 80m rope is essential, tie a knot in the end of your rope. The crag gets the shade after midday.

A very pleasant crag with a variety of routes on rough rock, mostly in the easier grades, but also with a few excellent harder routes. The setting and views are magnificent, and the late arrival of the shade (after 1pm) means that you can have a leisurely start in the hotter months.

Mainly wall climbing varying from pleasant slabs to overhanging tufas. Excellent routes on solid, sometimes sharp rock up to 30m in height. Set in an idyllic location with crystal clear sea, and lovely views of the North of Kalymnos. Stays in the shade until 4pm or later depending on the time of year.