Chuenisberg Ravage
The sector Ravage is steep and has a long history. It was once home to the hardest route in the world. Ravage is a route that has now been on sighted by Adam Ondra. The Bohemian born, Basel resident, Wenzel Vodicka worked with the leading French climber Antoine Le Menestrel to make the first ascent back in 1985. Originally graded 8b+, it is now thought to be 8c, and still sees very few ascents. Vodicka later turned his attention to the wall to the right, but continually failed on one move, despite many attempts over many years. Frederick Nicole eventually redpointed the route in 1996, and impressed with the standard that Vodicka had reached, named it "Enfant de Boheme". A few years later another Frenchman, Pierre Bollinger added an even harder route to this wall, "Fusion" graded 8c+. You can see a video here.
Sport and bolted routes
Topo Ref | Route | Sport Grade | Length | Quality | Description | Tick |
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00 | Sector | Ravage. At the left hand side of the Ravage buttress is "Zur blauen Rebe", see the sector Chuenisberg Premiere. The first routes described here start to the right of that route |
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01 | Long Dong Silver | 7c | 8m | Starts to the left of Noir c'est noir. Compression moves. |
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01e | Long Dong Gold | 8a | 12m | The extension to Long Dong Silver |
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02 | Noir c'est noir | 7c+ | 20m | |||
03 | Sika Merfen | 7b+ | 25m | |||
03e | Sika Merfen extension | 7c | Crux at the end |
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03f | Shaqattack | 8a+ | 25m | The right hand extension to Sika Merfen |
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04 | Unfinished Business | 8a | 20m | Breaks left out of Sika Merfen. An extension to the extension has been bolted |
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05 | Fortuna | 8b | 25m | Start up Sika Merfen, move left and then back right to finish up Sika Merfen extension |
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06 | Paroxysme | 7b+ | 8m | Climbs to the 4th bolt of the next route |
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06e | L'appel de la foret | 8c | 15m | Paroxysme completion |
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07 | Ravage | 8c | 12m | Once the hardest route in the world, has now been led on sight |
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08 | Enfant de Bohéme | 8c | 13m | The right hand variant to Ravage |
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08R | Enfant de la fusion | 8c+ | A right hand finish to Enfant de Boheme |
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09 | Fusion | 8c+ | 15m | |||
09L | Instant de fébrilité | 8c+ | Left hand finish to Fusion |
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10 | Marqué en toit | 8a+ | 10m | To the first lower off. The extension is similar |
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11 | Le salaire du Zappeur | 8b | 14m | |||
12 | Douleur 3 | 7c | 14m | |||
13 | Mesodehydral | 7b | 17m | Starts as for Mesotherachute but goes left up the slanting flake |
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14 | Mesotherachute au sol | 7a+ | 17m | The excellent groove, hard at the start, then sustained all the way |
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16 | Le petit Nicolas | 7c | 12m | ** | ||
17 | Il est ou, le beau caillou? | 6c | 11m | *** | ||
25 | Blackus Domus | 4b | 15m | A bit further right is an obvious rightward slanting weakness. 4b seems a bit optimistic for this route |
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26 | Faillite politique | 7a+ | 15m | An overhanging start leads to a hard boulder problem over the bulge and still tricky climbing up the finishing cracks |
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27 | Political Bassa Bassa | 7a+ | 15m | Easier overhanging climbing to a hard move over the bulge past a mono, then larger holds to the same lower off as Faillite politique |
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28 | Kampf der Giganten | 6b | 15m | A steep start, then move right to follow huge holds up the overhanging, rightward trending crack and a tricky final bulge. It is possible to move left at the huge holds and finish at the lower off of the previous two routes (6c+). It is also possible to start direct (6c) |
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29 | Seven up | 7a+ | 15m | Starts right of the direct start to Kampf der Giganten, has hard moves in the middle and moves left over the bulge to finish at the lower off of Kampf der Giganten |
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30 | Der Schein trügt | 7a | 30m | The name says it all. Starts a few metres right of the previous route |