Pointe des Cinéastes
A classic alpine ridge climb from the réfuge du Glacier Blanc, with tremendous views of the Ecrins. The route traverses 5 of the 6 summits along the ridge (it misses out the first southern summit) and then descends the east side, The rock is generally good, the route is exposed and the climbing always enjoyable. It is not too long and can be done in a half day from the hut.
Refuge du glacier Blanc
The road to Ailefroide is closed in winter. It is progressively cleared of snow up to Pré de Mme Carle during the spring and is usually fully open at the end of April / beginning of May. From Ailefroide follow the road that leads north to the Pré de Mme Carle, park here and follow the crowds up the well beaten track to the refuge du Glacier Blanc.
From the refuge du Glacier Blanc, follow the path east toward the Col du Monêtier and at around 2700 fork left towards the Pointe des Cinéastes. If doing the classic route, keep going until underneath the west face where there is a large ledge / gully that cuts across the west face. Join this and follow it to the bottom of the rocky gully that leads to the gap north of the first summit. Climb this to the gap (exposed but not hard). If doing the Voie du vieux piton continue to the bottom of the south arete, where the name of the route is written in large letters. The route follows a long corner in the middle, then nice pitches leading to the gap after the first summit. 7/8 pitches in total. The route along the ridge itself climbs to the 2nd summit (IV), the 3rd (5b,5c); 4th (IV), abseil to the gap then easier climb over the 5th and to the summit of the 6th. From here abseil 20m down the east side, then descend the east flank with a couple of abseils before following the glacier south back to the start.
Map of scrambles and alpine climbs
Photos (click for full view)
