Roche Paillon
In the right conditions the ascent of Roche Paillon from the Refuge des Ecrins is a beautiful grade 2 snow and ice climb. However, in recent years during the summer the gully leading to the summit loses it's snow, making it an unprotected scramble up tottering shale. Likewise the continuation along the arete leading to Roche Emile Pic is a super tour given the right conditions, but technically tricky and dirty later in the year. Best to go in late spring or early summer.
Refuge des Ecrins is situated at the foot of Roche Paillon, or Refuge du Glacier Blanc about 2 hours walk from the start of the climbing.
The road to Ailefroide is closed in winter. It is progressively cleared of snow up to Pré de Mme Carle during the spring and is usually fully open at the end of April / beginning of May. From Ailefroide follow the road that leads north to the Pré de Mme Carle, park here and follow the crowds up the well beaten track to the refuge du Glacier Blanc. Now continue north, then north west up the good track along the north side of the ever receding glacier, until after 45 minutes or so the path descends to the glacier itself. Follow the glacier along it's north side avoiding the creavasses (alpine equipment, crampons and rope ) until it is possible to climb up to the Refuge des Ecrins. 1300m of ascent and about 4 hours from the parking to the hut.
From the hut, climb up to the North until it is possible to climb to the west underneath the large arete of rock coming down from the summit. Follow the snow up the west side of this arete, which slowly narrows and steepens into the couloir that leads to the summit. In good conditions this is an excellent grade 2 climb. The couloir ends practically at the summit of Roche Paillon. From the summit follow the vague track that leads down to the north east to reach the col between Emile Pic and Roche Paillon. This is steep but not overly difficult. From here it is possible to traverse on snow and ice (grade 2/3) around the north side of Emile Pic to reach the col Emile Pic. This is harder later in the season when the snow and ice has started to melt and turned to steep slabs. It is possible to reach the summit of Emile Pic via a snow couloir that leads up to the arete of Emile Pic. Descend from e summit of Emile Pic via a 50m abseil on fixed gear to col Emile Pic. Descent from the col is by two 25m abseils starting from fixed bolts just below the col on the south side. Later in the season this abseil is wet and horrible. Continue down the glacier Emile Pic to reach the Glacier Blanc and retrace your steps to the refuge du Glacier Blanc.
Map of scrambles and alpine climbs
Photos (click for full view)
