Roc des Boeufs - Traversée des arêtes
The Hogs Back or la Traversée des arêtes des Roc des Boeuf is a long ridge climb on excellent rock with superb views of the Bauges, lake Annecy and Mont Blanc. Although described here as a scramble there is one short, hard, bolt protected section (5c/6a or A0) as well as numerous grade III sections. The route goes up the East side to the steepest part of the ridge, and then follows the ridge for several hundred metres to the highest point before descending the West side. Take a 50m rope, slings, screwgates, a couple of friends and a few quickdraws.
Drive from Bellecombe en Bauges towards le Mont and park in the layby where the road turns left to Mont Derriere. On foot walk towards Mont Derriere and after 200m turn right onto the track signposted col de la Frasse. Continue through the woods and meadows past a few Alpine huts to the col (1 hour). Finding the start of the route now gets more difficult. You are heading SW and up from the col to the steepest part of the ridge. To get there traverse horizontally left (SW) below the chalet until it possible to enter the woods by some beech trees. This is possible at several levels, probably the best is the lowest that leads through the woods, zig zagging to reach the lower parts of the arete. It is also possible to take a higher line and again zig zag to emerge just below the steepest part of the arete. 1.5 to 2 hours from the car, depending on how lost you get.
1) III. Climb up to belay on a bolt. 50m (2) III. Continue up cracks. 40m (3) walk to the base of a couloir /chimney. (4) III. Climb the couloir /chimney past a piton. 50m. 5) scramble to the foot of a chipped slab with 3 bolts in it. (6) 30m climb the slab trying not to pull on the bolts. 6a or A0. This pitch can be avoided by traversing right. (7) continue past the cross for another 500m or so. Along the way you will climb another tricky wall with 2 bolts and a peg (20m IV); a steep corner (25m III); and a short 3m boulder problem wall (IV). Eventually you will reach the highest point of the ridge with magnificent views over lake Annecy and Mont Blanc. Allow 3 to 4 hours.
The descent is immediately after the summit about 100m before a metal triangulation point. The descent is marked with green dots, steep at first but soon turns into a good track that leads to the chalets du Sollier, and the the road back to the car park. About 1 hour 15 from the summit.
Map of scrambles and alpine climbs
Photos (click for full view)
