Tafraoute North - The Narrow Slit
A small but worthwhile crag with many excellent routes. The Narrow Slit is a deep, dry gorge with climbs on both wings and at the entrance to the gorge. Abseil points at the top of the Amphibian and Scooby Doo.
From Tizourgane Kasbah take the road towards Ida Ougnidif, turning right after 1km and then left after 5km. Follow this road for a further 9.5km to some concrete water tanks on the left hand side of the road. Park in 200m at the next right bend on the right hand side of the road. The slit is up to the left and reached in about 10 minutes.
Most climbers stay at Tizourgane Kasbah. http://www.tizourgane-kasbah.com/
Trad Climbs
| Topo Reference | Title | Trad UK E Grade | Trad UK tech grade | Length | Quality | Description | Tick |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 01 | Lobster Crawl | E1 | 5b | 70m | * | Start at thin twin cracks, and climb the right hand one to a stance below the final overhang (40m 5b). traverse right between the overhangs to gain a finishing groove (30m 5a). |
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| 02 | Crab shell | E1 | 5b | 80m | Start at the right side of the small pillar left of the entrance to the slit. Climb up and left to belay on a ledge below an orange corner (left of the black crack) (50m 5a). Climb steeply up and left to an easier finish (30m 5b). |
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| 03 | Pythagosauras | HVS | 5a | 60m | ** | The obvious chimney left of the slit. Best done as two pitches to avoid rope drag. Enjoy the exposure at the top, and continue to the abseil point at the top of the Amphibian |
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| 04 | The Fox | E3 | 5c | 55m | ** | Start up Pythagosaurus, and after the first roof at 15m, traverse right to gain the main face, climb this to a niche (25m 5c). Continue up the cracks and corner above to reach the abseil point of Amphibian (30m 5b). |
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| 05 | The Amphibian | E4 | 6a | 55m | *** | An excellent route up the left hand side of the slit. Climb a wide crack to reach a ledge, place a red alien or similar and make a hard move to reach a hand jam sized crack. Continue over the bulge and up the crack to a second hard move. Belay in the cave and continue more easily up the chimneys above |
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| 06 | Aquabat | E1 | 5b | 55m | * | The V chimney right of Amphibian is climbed to a belay below an overhang (30m 5b). Traverse left to finish up the chimney of Amphibian (25m 5b). Variation finishes are possible. |
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| 07 | Riding the Ass | E3 | 5c | 60m | ** | Climbs the crack and flakes 15m right of Aquabat. The pitch can be split at the top of the flake |
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| 08 | Scooby Doo | E1 | 5b | 70m | * | The left hand side of the face right of the Slit. Start at the obvious corner / groove and trend left to a belay on the arete (35m 5b). Continue up over two pinnacles to an abseil point (35m 4b). |
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| 09 | Shaggy | E1 | 5b | 50m | * | |
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| 10 | Invertibrator | HVS | 5a | Start right of the Shaggy Pinnacle and continue more or less direct |
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