Orpierre
An historical village that has been brought back to life by the wealth of climbing within walking distance. Orpierre has climbs up to 8bish, many routes in the 7a to 7c range, but with the majority of the routes in the beginner and intermediate category. It is a beautiful location, with many of the crags profiting from the winter sun, that come into the shade later in the day. Sunny winter days, spring and autumn are the best seasons.
It is popular with groups, and as a result most of the routes are getting very polished, but despite this, it is still a lovely place to climb.
There are three main parking areas in Orpierre, depending where you are climbing. One is in the centre of the village for sectors A to H. The second is Parking du Paradis, above Les Terraces du Paradis. This gives access to Quiquillon. The third is Parking de l'Adreche for sectors I to Q. Most sectors can be reached in less than 20 minutes from the parking.
Sectors
| Sector | Description | Sun | Grades | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| A | Château left | The nearest sector to the village |
In winter in the morning, in the spring until 3pm | 4a - 6b+ |
| B | Château l'etrangleur | Steep overhanging routes |
Until midday early season, 2pm in Spring | 6a - 7b |
| C | Château - Mission Impossible | The routes are getting harder ! |
Until about 2pm | 6a+ to 8c |
| D | Château- Hurlement | Steep routes ! |
Until 2pm | 6b+ to 8b |
| E | Château- Anticlinal | Some easier routes, even if they dont feel it |
Until 2pm | 5b - 6b+ |
| F | Château- Cascade | Very popular, very polished. |
Early morning on the left, always on the right | 4a - 7b |
| G | Belleric | Mid grade routes |
All day | Mostly 6s |
| H | Quiquillon West | Multi-pitch routes. |
In the afternoon | 5c to 8a |
| I | Quiquillon South East | Short and long routes ! |
Until 4pm | 5b to 7a |
| J | Quatre Heures | The time the sun leave the crag |
Until 4pm ! | Mostly 5s and 6s |
| K | Ascle | A few grade 5/6 multipitch routes |
Until mid afternoon | 5a to 6c |
| L | Adrech | Multipitch on the LHS, sport routes on the Face cachée. |
Most of the day. Face cachée until midday. | 5a - 6c multipitch, 6b to 7c+ on Face cachée |
| M | Pilier de la lumière | Nice wall climbing |
Until 4pm | 5b - 7b |
| N | Secteur de l'ombre | A steep wall and some nice slabs |
Until midday on the wall | 6b+ to 7a+ on the wall, up to 6a on the slabs |
| O | Dalles du Paradis | Lovely slabs ! |
All day | 5a to 6b |
| P | L'éternel féminine | Nice wall climbing. |
Most of the day | 5b to 6c |
| Q | Paroi jaune | Mostly long and overhanging wall climbs |
Until 4pm | 6c to 8b |